
If you are buying bottles by the dozen or provisions for weeks ahead, you will do well to present your custom to the out-of-town hypermarkets of Auchan, Intermarché, Leclerc or Lidl. You can go to the Belvédère (where Auchan is situated) by taking the No 2 bus from outside the Tourist Information Office. Or take a taxi.

If you are more excited by French street life than a cosmopolitan commercial centre, you will find a large variety of small shops and a few supermarkets in the town centre. The main supermarket, Shopi in the rue de la Barre, is towards the top end of the pedestrianised high street. Its checkout tills can eat up your pounds without your changing them into euros.
A smaller supermarket, Marché Plus, is on the quai Duquesne. Sophisticated tastes in cheese are satisfied chez Claude Olivier in the rue St Jacques. He has more than 100 varieties stored in his cellars and carries a wide selection of wines to go with them. Try the local cheese, Neufchâtel, more salty and less fatty than Camembert.
Around the corner, in the rue des Maillots, is the Sommelier, offering tasters to those interested in a fine range of wines. LC Vins, at the beginning of the Grande Rue, specialises – like the Sommelier – in 10-litre wine boxes at around 30 euros: try the Gamay. Monsieur Pommier, who had a wine shop on the corner of the place Nationale, has reduced his stock on moving to smaller premises next door and concentrates on selling coffee and tea at the Maison du Torréfacteur. You can find Lapsang Souchong there.
For fish and shellfish, don't miss the Marée du Jour, on the place Nationale, opposite St Jacques' Church, which has some 30 varieties of fish on display.
For fashion freaks, there are high street shops worth a visit. Siobhan, the much travelled London stylist, says you can find the classic French look here: "Great stripy tops and beautiful silk neckties." Try Pimkie at 87 Grande Rue, for the 16- to 25-year-olds, or Promod at 170 Grande Rue for an older age range. Eurodif at the beginning of the Grande Rue is a kind of BHS.
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